Dimensions:
Call for stock availability
Installation:
Nail-Down, Glue-Down
Underfloor Heating:
Not Compliant
Timber supplied in a reclaimed state or in an 'as is' condition, will need some form of finishing on site after installation. Some minor cleaning of the product is to be expected and carried out prior to fitting. Various degrees of sanding and different types of finish such as oils and waxes can produce a multitude of differing looks to the completed floor. Due to the complexity of the material we would always recommend that an experienced flooring contractor be used, especially for the final finishing of a reclaimed floor and would be happy to provide a quote for the work as well as the material.
We take care to ensure that the reclaimed materials are good and useable, although due to the nature of the product contamination of various types can occur and may be visible after sanding. Issues like years of paint and oxidisation marks from metal fixings or occasional patches of end decay will be allowed for and trimmed where possible. In addition the resin and oil content of old timber usually dissuades any pest attack, but occasionally small areas may be discovered and removed or treated. We cannot guarantee freedom from any of the above and more, but most clients consider these as cosmetically pleasing features that are within the bounds of their salvaged material requirements.
The manufactured structure of this floor is
Solid.
Solid StructureSolid hardwood floors are typically 18-20mm thick boards cut out of a tree as one unit, a tradition that has been around for generations. Solid hardwood flooring provides a unique look to ones home and depending on the selected specie and grade provides a natural characteristic and texture full environment.
Solid wood floors come in a wide variety of widths, helping you achieve the exact look you are after. It is available in narrow boards, wider boards and most sizes in between, and in some designs can be used in mixed widths to achieve a more natural and informal look. Solid wood floorings durability and longevity can supersede those of other flooring types and because of the thicker wear layer they can be sanded and refinished several times, providing a newer floor look every time. In additional as solid wood floors can, in most cases, be used as a structural floor and contributes to the overall structural strength of a property.
In addition to the large variety in widths, thickness and lengths, solid wood flooring is also available in a large variety of species. In addition to the classic hardwood variants such as white oak, red oak and maple, ash or walnut, there are a large number of exotic varieties such as Jatoba, Jarah, Ipe, Raintree, Mango, Teak and many more. It is important to note that some of the exotic species like Wenge or teak from certain parts of the world are endangered and should be avoided.
For more information on board structure
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This product is available in the following dimensions:
Call for stock availability
Dimensions
Thickness (mm) x Width (mm) x Length (mm)
Thickness - Refers to the total thickness of the plank. Our solid floors are usually between 18mm and 20mm while our Engineered are usually between 14mm and 21mm in thick.
Width - Width is the extent from side to side and refers to the breadth or wideness of a plank. Our most common flooring widths range from 90mm to 290mm wide.
Length - Length is the longest extent of a plank, measured from end to end. Our Engineered floors are usually all the same length ranging from 1800mm to 2400mm, although some engineered products come in variable lengths. Most of our Solid floors are available in random lengths, and depending on floor specie and/or manufacturer usually between 500mm and 1500mm or for longer lengths, anywhere between 1200mm to 2700mm.
Wear Layer - The term “wear layer” refers to the top portion of a plank and its thickness will impact the amount of times a product can be refinished. On solid hardwood floors this is normally the section above the tongue of the plank. In an engineered product, the wear layer is only as thick as the hardwood specie layer at the top of the product, usually 4mm or 6mm. Most manufacturers produce engineered products with enough wear layers to allow for at least one refinish.
This product is supplied
unfinished and will require on-site finishing.
UnfinishedUnfinished is simply a floor that has been sanded on the surface ready to receive it protective coat. Unfinished floors provide a great way to customise different colour stains and oils to create a bespoke floor.
For more information on board finishes
click here.
This product can be installed using the following method/s:
Nail-Down Installation (18mm thick and above only)Nail-down installation is the most straightforward installation methods, and is only advised if you have a wood subfloor. This installation method is typically performed by a professional as it requires certain skill and level of knowledge as well as the use of specialist tools, therefore not recommended for the Do-It-Yourself (DIY) enthusiasts.
When installing over plywood or composite board the direction chosen to lay the planks does not matter; however, if the new flooring is nailed down over existing floorboards, the new planks must be installed at a 90° angle to the original floorboards. This is done to ensure stability and to avoid the risk of excessive movement, buckling or warping.
Commonly used with tongued boards, the installers should start at one end of the room and leave a ½ inch gap around the entire perimeter to allow for expansion. They should carefully select several of the straightest boards and once they have been nailed in place, go back and nail the same boards through the tongue, pre-drilling and nailing at a 45° angle. After the third row or so is in place a manual or pneumatic floor-nailer can be used.
The floor nail or cleat used should be ring-shanked or jagged and no less then 2.5 times the thickness of the boards. They should be set into each floor joist or batten, assuming 16 inch spacing and an additional nail between each set. This should result in a spacing of every 8" to 10" as recommended by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). Boards must have a minimum of two nails each. No two connecting boards should end on the same line so the installer should alter lengths, to stager joints 6 inch apart. Often the last row will not fit a full strip of flooring and should be cut so the installer is able to hand nail the last row, leaving enough space for a ½ inch expansion gap between the wall and the wood. For better aesthetics the installers should run the boards through the doorway and continue into the adjacent room, although it may not be possible in all property types or room layouts.
Glue-Down Installation (Recommended)Glue-down installation requires the use of an adhesives or bonding agent applied directly onto the subfloor. It can be used on both concrete and wooden subfloors. Some of these adhesives are designed with under floor heating in mind and can be used for both solid and engineered floors. Laying over a concrete subfloor will first require a two part epoxy liquid Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) to ensure no damp rises into the new floor.
The Glue-down installation method can provide an extremely stable floor when done properly, although it will require a slightly longer overall installation process. As with other installation methods, the installers should leave an expansion gap around the perimeter and follow the same laying pattern. This method can be used for wide planks although it is mostly common for parquet flooring.
For more information on floor installation, acclimatization, sub-floor preperation and more please visit our
advice pages
