Wood Flooring

The manufactured structure of this floor is Engineered.

Engineered Structure
Unlike solid hardwood floors which are typically 18-20mm thick boards cut out of a tree as one unit, engineered hardwood floors are composed of several layers of wood (usual three to five) bonded together using cross-grain lamination. The top layer, typically 4 – 6mm thick, is the part that is visible when the flooring is installed. It is adhered to the layered core, which may be constructed from the same wood specie or from less expensive hardwood like Burch or softwood species like Pine. The additional layers and the way they are connected dramatically increase the stability of the planks and reduce the natural tendency of hardwoods to expand, contract, warp, or cup due to changing room temperature or moisture in the air or sub-floor.

There are a several reasons engineered flooring provide a superior option to solid wood flooring. Engineered wood can be installed using the ‘floating’ installation method, reducing installation times and increasing ease of repair. In most cases they are also adequate to be used over Under Floor Heating, due to their stability.



For more information on board structure click here.

This product is available in the following dimensions:
14 x 127 x 300 - 730mm Lacquered Only
15 x 190 x 1860mm
20 x 190 x 1830mm

Dimensions
Thickness (mm) x Width (mm) x Length (mm)

Thickness - Refers to the total thickness of the plank. Our solid floors are usually between 18mm and 20mm while our Engineered are usually between 14mm and 21mm in thick.

Width - Width is the extent from side to side and refers to the breadth or wideness of a plank. Our most common flooring widths range from 90mm to 290mm wide.

Length - Length is the longest extent of a plank, measured from end to end. Our Engineered floors are usually all the same length ranging from 1800mm to 2400mm, although some engineered products come in variable lengths. Most of our Solid floors are available in random lengths, and depending on floor specie and/or manufacturer usually between 500mm and 1500mm or for longer lengths, anywhere between 1200mm to 2700mm.

Wear Layer - The term “wear layer” refers to the top portion of a plank and its thickness will impact the amount of times a product can be refinished. On solid hardwood floors this is normally the section above the tongue of the plank. In an engineered product, the wear layer is only as thick as the hardwood specie layer at the top of the product, usually 4mm or 6mm. Most manufacturers produce engineered products with enough wear layers to allow for at least one refinish.

This product is garded as Natural.

Natural Grade
Natural grade is the middle timber grade. It allows for slightly larger and more frequent knot content than the prime grade. It will also display some colour variations and some mineral streaking and grain pattern.

A small quantity of sapwood will be apparent in most orders. Sapwood can appear as lighter or darker patches in a wood floor and is most visible in darker finishes like fumed or heat treated. Sapwood is not of an inferior quality but can, if preferred, be removed by our wood fitter, if arranged in advance and the fitting service is provided by us. Please note that this may require additional packs to be purchased to compensate for the additional wastage.



For more information on board grading click here.

For more information on board finishes click here.

This product can be installed using the following method/s:

Floating Installation (Engineered Structure only)
Using the floating method of installation will require the pre-laying of an underlay in order to provide a cushion between the floor and the subfloor. Use one that combines a built in DPM on ground and basement levels or above concrete sub-floors and an acoustic option in multi occupant buildings to provide sound reduction between floors. This method will only lend itself to engineered boards although wide engineered planks are not recommended to be used for this method. Once the underlay has been fitted, the installers should start laying the planks on one end of the room and leave a 1/2inch gap around the entire perimeter to allow for expansion. In this method no nails are used and the board’s ether connects using a click system or the tongue and grooves are glued together. The only downside with floating floors is that they are more likely to “creak” and the PVA glue that is commonly used can break down over the years, and the joints work loose.

Nail-Down Installation (18mm thick and above only)
Nail-down installation is the most straightforward installation methods, and is only advised if you have a wood subfloor. This installation method is typically performed by a professional as it requires certain skill and level of knowledge as well as the use of specialist tools, therefore not recommended for the Do-It-Yourself (DIY) enthusiasts. When installing over plywood or composite board the direction chosen to lay the planks does not matter; however, if the new flooring is nailed down over existing floorboards, the new planks must be installed at a 90° angle to the original floorboards. This is done to ensure stability and to avoid the risk of excessive movement, buckling or warping. Commonly used with tongued boards, the installers should start at one end of the room and leave a ½ inch gap around the entire perimeter to allow for expansion. They should carefully select several of the straightest boards and once they have been nailed in place, go back and nail the same boards through the tongue, pre-drilling and nailing at a 45° angle. After the third row or so is in place a manual or pneumatic floor-nailer can be used. The floor nail or cleat used should be ring-shanked or jagged and no less then 2.5 times the thickness of the boards. They should be set into each floor joist or batten, assuming 16 inch spacing and an additional nail between each set. This should result in a spacing of every 8" to 10" as recommended by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). Boards must have a minimum of two nails each. No two connecting boards should end on the same line so the installer should alter lengths, to stager joints 6 inch apart. Often the last row will not fit a full strip of flooring and should be cut so the installer is able to hand nail the last row, leaving enough space for a ½ inch expansion gap between the wall and the wood. For better aesthetics the installers should run the boards through the doorway and continue into the adjacent room, although it may not be possible in all property types or room layouts.

Glue-Down Installation (Recommended)
Glue-down installation requires the use of an adhesives or bonding agent applied directly onto the subfloor. It can be used on both concrete and wooden subfloors. Some of these adhesives are designed with under floor heating in mind and can be used for both solid and engineered floors. Laying over a concrete subfloor will first require a two part epoxy liquid Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) to ensure no damp rises into the new floor. The Glue-down installation method can provide an extremely stable floor when done properly, although it will require a slightly longer overall installation process. As with other installation methods, the installers should leave an expansion gap around the perimeter and follow the same laying pattern. This method can be used for wide planks although it is mostly common for parquet flooring.



For more information on floor installation, acclimatization, sub-floor preperation and more please visit our advice pages

This product is Compliant with Underfloor Heating as long as guidelines below are met.

Underfloor Heating Guidelines
When installing wood flooring over an Underfloor Heating System, installers/specifiers should consider the wide ranging temperatures which will influence movement. During the summer months the timber will expand whereas during the winter, when the heating is switched on, the timber will shrink.

Only engineered wood flooring specifically approved for use over radiant heat should be used. Installing flooring which is not approved over a radiant heat source will void any product warranty and may result in damage to the floor. It is also vital to understand that the surface temperature of the timber floor covering should not exceed 27°c (81°f); otherwise excessive gaping between boards and/or cracking of the top layer may occur. For wider hardwood boards, which are more susceptible to changes in moisture, a maximum surface temperature of between 22° - 24°c (72° - 75°f) would be appropriate.

Its is usually sufficient to provide a comfortable environment in newly built properties with adequate insulation and is generally brought about, in water feed systems, by a water circulation temperature of 35° - 45°c (95° - 113°f) or, in Electric systems, with temperatures equates to an average power output of approximately 100W/m2. It is important to note that the exact heat output will vary according to the thermal conductivity and resistance of the system and floor covering used (species, thickness etc) therefore it is important that a dedicated thermostat is installed at floor surface level to allow the temperature to be accurately controlled.

Pipes and cabling must be evenly laid out. Water pipes are usually spaced at no more than 300mm centres and Electric matting should be laid evenly, on a levelled subfloor, throughout the floor area in order to avoid local 'hotspots'. When under floor heating systems are installed at ground or basement floor level (lowest level of property), the heating elements are usually covered beneath a screed. The recommended depth of the screed may vary between 30mm and 75mm, while deeper screeds will aid in heat dissipation and will help prevent local hotspots from occurring. Allow the screed sufficient time to fully dry and ensure that the equilibrium relative humidity is certainly no more than 75%RH but ideally no greater than 65%RH.

Once the heating system is installed, and before any wood flooring is laid, the heating system should be turned on gradually in maximum 5°c (41°f) increments a day and should be run at half to two-thirds its maximum power for two weeks, followed by maximum power for 2 - 7 days prior to installation of the flooring. The room should be ventilated briefly every day during this period.

The under floor heating is generally switched off when laying the floor in order to prevent moisture being driven to the underside of the boards. Whilst this is not strictly necessary in the case of nailed or floating system, it is especially true when stick-down systems are installed. After the floor has been installed, the heating should be turned back on very gradually over a period of several days. Sudden changes in temperature such as testing period should be avoided as this can 'shock' the timber and cause rapid irreversible setting of the wood.